"But What Will I Wear?"

Amber Marsh
Apr 3, 2020
4 min read

Updated: Jun 10, 2020

“To be truly elegant one should not be noticed.” — Beau Brummell

Did you know that on any given day in Victorian England a woman could have worn somewhere around twelve layers of clothing or more, depending on the season?

March was International Women's month, so I thought I’d jump back into my blog here in April with a little something for our very, very, VERY over-dressed foremothers. We salute you!

In some ways, I am exceedingly jealous of them. I’d love to wear those beautiful frilly ball gowns—even if they did weigh 35lbs. The closest I’ve ever gotten to Victorian dress was when I played firstly a harlot, then a Russian grand duchess in two separate productions of Die Fledermaus.

Yes, I’m exceedingly envious—even as I sit here in my leggings, t-shirt, and kitty socks—envious and just a tad relieved.

On a typical day you’d get up and if you were middle class or higher (sorry poverty-stricken, your blog post is reserved for another day) you’d start a ritual, that I can only imagine was arduous and probably took forever. You'd have to have either a maid (or darling husband) to help you get everything perfected before daring to be seen—sort of how certain people are with makeup nowadays.

Undergarments first: Begin ladies with your linen chemise, stockings (Cotton, red wool, or silk depending on the season), and shoes. Make sure your shoes are appropriate for your planned activities. Will you be taking a carriage or will you be walking to pay your calls?

Thank goodness our story is set in 1843 and the corsets open at the front AND at the back, making things a lot easier for our heroine (who, SPOILER ALERT has neither maid nor husband). The split-busk corset, with a slot and stud closure, was patented in 1848 by Joseph Cooper but most people forget the idea and original design was invented by Jean-Julien Josselin in 1829, so it is very possible, if not likely, our heroine would be wearing one.

Now, I've worn corsets before, as I've said, I'm a trained opera singer so I've spent a little time being laced in—and honestly, I find them very comfortable. It corrects my posture, alleviates strain I might have on my lower back and makes me very aware when I've had too much to eat. Though my two to five-hour stints are nothing compared to the confinement of twelve to eighteen hours a day, seven days a week, fifty-two weeks a year starting at the age of twelve. Though it was the height of fashion, it must not only have done damage to their bodies but their spirits.

Now, ladies, a padded petticoat will be a necessity if ‘winter is coming’. These are double-walled with quilting and have goose down to keep everything nice and cozy on those chilly, or worse, snowy, walks you're encouraged to take for your health.

If the weather is fine, you'll skip the padding and be wearing just a corded petticoat. These were the prequel to the crinoline cage. They were not as bulky in giving skirts that bell shape. No dress was complete without them. So yours won't be either. Then, atop that, you can have up to three (some say four) petticoats of a lighter material. Though "lighter" material was often included in bulk, such as rows of lace or tulle.

You might then have a chemisette or corset cover, which will cover the corset, creating a blouse-like effect, but this will be optional as per the dress.

Your dress is a big decision. It was how you would look for the whole day. Mostly because it was far too bothersome to change before it was required—be happy that today you can change your clothes as many times as you wish thanks to modern contraptions, like zippers.

Though, these dresses, they were something special, made with beautiful care and craftsmanship, and gosh, were there ever so-ho-ho many options—if it were me, I’d be giddy with excitement.

Next, you'd prepare your hair, possibly using hairpieces, unless your own hair was long and luxurious and you had the patience of a saint while your maid worked on it.

Lastly, no outfit is complete without outer layers like gloves, a cape, cloak, or spencer and a Bonnet.

And finally, you're ready to greet the day...or what's left of it.

Mind you, this was just for day-wear. You’d change again for dinner, and possibly again for tea time somewhere in the middle if you were upper class, and of course balls and formal events where an entirely different animal ( and for another post).

The most frustrating part, at least to me, is that clothing kept changing so rapidly. It went from huge in the 1700s to slimmer in the early 1800s, then 1820s-30s got bigger, then got smaller in the 1840s, then got bigger in the 50s and bigger…60s-80s, then smaller 80s onward...is it just me, or can we see a trend…